Day 39 - Nov. 21 - Mougins - Our last night in "our" house

The reality of our time in Europe drawing to a close couldn't be avoided. We had to get out the suitcases and begin packing. Quite a task!

We left the house at 11 AM and drove to Mougins to a store where we were trying to find something. The GPS could not find the address and if we entered the name of the store, it  kept trying to send us back to Antibes. We finally decided to have lunch first and worry about the store afterward. Getting accustomed to the narrow window of opening hours here is not easy - even though we've lived with it previously. Many restaurants only serve lunch from noon-2:00 PM, and many stores are closed from 12:30-2:40 PM. You always have to be aware, not assume (as we would in the US) that things will always be open.

We had passed by the Moulin de Mougins, which was very famous at one time - Roger Verge, considered one of the greatest chefs of all time, opened it in 1969 and by 1974 had attained 3-Michelin stars. Verge had moved on to open other restaurants and retired in 2003. The current chef, Erwan Louaisil, has worked in many Michelin restaurants, including for Alain Ducasse in Paris and Daniel Bolud in NY, but as yet has not been awarded a star at the Moulin. Prices will probably go up if he does!

I had read mostly good reviews, but knew there were some less expensive places that might be as good or better. But, it seemed they were all in the old village - up the hill with difficult roads and parking, which Ron did not want to face.

The building is very attactive - a 16th century mill. The dining room was quite stark, but chic, as it was totally white - white walls, ceilings, beams, table cloths, and even dishes. There was modern art on the walls, as well as photographs of celebrities who had been frequent guests, such as Elizabeth Taylor. The terrace and gardens were lovely. We both chose the 2-course menu for 31 EU. As is generally the case, French restaurants offer a "menu" at lunch which provides good value compared to their ala carte list, and especially compared to dinner. Of course, wine, mineral water and coffee is extra. If we had ordered ala carte, the cost would have been more than double. Even so, this was our biggest "splurge" in our six weeks of travel. The foie gras was beautifully presented and one of the most delicious things we've ever tasted. Made me realize my taste buds are not totally dead (as I sometimes felt after nothing seemed to taste good for months after surgery).

Amuse bouche - the waiter didn't explain it properly -
I THINK it was a kind of pea mousse atop "lardon" (bacon fat puree)
Sounds terrible - but tasted great

The absolute best and most beautful dish we've had this trip
(Duck Foie Gras terrine, marbled orange and chocolate, bourbon
vanilla puff pastry) - Heavenly! 

Mary's sea bass with dill and aniseed butter, served with
a braised fennel mousse

Ron's "Blanquette de Veau" - traditional veal stew
served with rice pilaf

Petit Fours in the lounge after lunch

In the lounge

The hostess at the reception desk helped us with directions to the store we were looking for, and printed out a map for us. That was our next stop, and getting there was not easy. With the traffic and the round-abouts, you really have to know EXACTLY where to leave the circle, or you will end up making another circuit blocks around the area. Unfortunately, the item we were looking for has to be special ordered.

Old town of Valbonnes

We continued toward "home". Ron found a parking spot in the town of Valbonne and we walked into the old town, which we hadn't even realized existed. Valbonne means "happy valley" (from the Latin). The town is quite charming - we loved the main square with its 15th-17th century arcades and big elm trees, surrounded by many cafes. After walking ten blocks or so through the town, we returned to the square and sat under an arcade for a drink. Lots of people around us were speaking English - residents, I think, as this is not far from the big technology park where many expats work.

Marie (town hall) - Valbonne

Main Square - Valbonne

Looking under the grape vine from cafe 

We soon headed back toward the house, stopping at the boulangerie for a baguette and the presse for the "International NY Times". That evening we had a delicious cheese fondue with the crusty baguette. We had lots to do with organizing our luggage, leaving the house in tidy condition, double-checking travel details, etc. It was hard to prepare myself for a return to "reality"!