Day 36 - Nov. 18 - Valbonne, Mougins - Lazy Day - Mostly Eating

After Ron returned from the boulangerie we had a nice breakfast with fresh figs roasted with goat cheese, goose liver pate (can't make an accent mark in this program), and of course, the crispy baguette.

Chateau de la Begude - Opio

We left the house about 11 AM headed for Mougins, another perched village, which is considered to be a "smart address" and also a center for fine dining - in season that is! We took our time along the back roads - as much as possible with people tailgating even when you are doing the speed limit. We saw a Chateau hotel golf course resort and pulled in - initially to be rid of a tailgater. We drove in to have a look, and ended up having a drink on the patio since it was a beautiful day and beautiful setting. The Chateau de la Begude in the small town of Opio is a 4*-hotel and apparently has a top chef - gets great reviews.

We continued on our way, following the GPS. After missing a turn on one of the many round-abouts, we noticed a busy restaurant, and decided to have a look. Le Bois Dore in Valbonne had a good menu, not outrageously priced, and looked very attractive, so we gave it a try. It was a good choice, as our meal was great and the restaurant's ambiance was lovely. A bit slow service, but that is dining in France. We were there just over TWO hours. The six Dutch gentlemen at a table nearby were there when we arrived, and were still there when we left - they seemed to be having a good time (Ron said "solving the problems of the world").

The "veloute" of vegetables

We were immediately served an amuse-bouche which was described as a "veloute de legumes" with a heart-shaped biscuit of some sort. A "veloute" is defined as a soup thickened with egg yolks, butter and cream; however this was more like a "mousse" or custard and served cold. Interesting, but rather bland.

I ordered the "Market Menu", 3-courses for a quite reasonable 29 EU, and Ron ordered an entrecote with green peppercorn sauce. We also shared a bottle of Loire Valley Muscadet (a nice, dry first cru).

Pepper and chorizo tart

My first course was a tartelette au poivrons en ecailles de chorizo with a side salad (given to Ron). The pastry of the tart was very thin and flaky, and the peppers and chorizo sausage were spicier than I had expeted. Unusual and tasty.

The second course was brochette de poulet marine au citron (chicken skewers marinated with lemon) and a side dish called "gratin de crozets". Crozets are small squares of pasta found in the Savoie Region - made with wheat flour - and typically cooked with cheese and cream. Surprisingly, we had never had them before.

Chicken skewers and "gratin de crozets"

Ron's entrecote and "frites de paniss maison"

Ron's entrecote (about 8-oz) was quite tough, but the meat was tasty, as was the peppercorn sauce. It was served with "frites de paniss maison" (seen at left behind the cup of sauce). These looked like a fried potato stick, but we later learned it is actually made with chickpea flour and olive oil - the same ingredients of the socca we tried in Nice. It was also accompanied by "puree de potimarron". We knew the word "marron" from German to be chestnut, but Ron said it tasted like pumpkin. Later research proved him right - it was a pumpkin puree.

YUM!

The piece-de-resistance was my third course - a selection from the extensive dessert menu. I chose Le Moelleux Chocolat Chaud with Creme Anglaise - a hot chocolate "molten" cake with vanilla sauce. The plate was drizzled with carmel sauce. I seldom order dessert, but it was heavenly. No dinner for me tonight! (We first had this dessert in Reims about 15+ years ago, and have never had one quite as good - but this came awfully close!








The restaurant decor was simple, but attractive, with many lamps casting a warm glow. Ecru table cloths, waiters all in black, comfortable brown leather chairs with arms. Modern art on the walls. "Trompe l'oeil" shutters and eyebrow arches painted around the windows. Most of the gentlemen patrons were wearing jackets, and some ties.



We were ready for a nap when we left the restaurant, but we still had to see the village of Mougins. It was nearby, and we found a place to park and walked into the village. One of the brasseries I had read about was actually open, and looked very nice, but many places were closed.

Picasso lived in Mougins the last 12-years of his life. Ferdnand Leger also had a studio here.Many artists and celebrities have spent time here, and during the annual Cannes Film Festival, many celebrities stay in Mougins. Several famous chefs, including Roger Verge and Alain Ducasse, have operated restaurants here. There are still some Michelin-starred restaurants.

We walked through the lanes, and went into the small church, which we thought was picturesque with the pipe organ and paintings. I haven't been able to learn any history about it.

Ron outside Mougins "Marie" (town hall)

Beautfiul tree with small "canal" with steps runing along the hill

We made our way back to the car and set the GPS for "home". Another pleasant day.

That evening we had a game of gin rummy. We have played a few times, and Ron has won by a landslide.