Day 35 - Nov. 17 - Biot, Grasse, Tourrettes sur Loup

Another rainy day greeted us. Ron set off for his "baguette run". On Mondays only a small portion of the boulangerie is open, but enough so to provide everyone with their much-needed morning bread. You will see the French leaving the shops with numerous baguettes - bread is the staple of life!

It was overcast, but a beautiful rainbow appeared in the sky over the mountains behind "our" house.



Around noon, we set off for the glass works in Biot. Rain was falling continually even though blue skies were peeking through.

At the Verrerie,  one part was closed, but we were able to see the Jean-Claude Novaro display, the glass-blowers at work, other artists, and a retail shop. Novaro has created a "flourescent" glass that "glows in the dark".

I made this "collage" in smilebox from photos we took of some of the Novaro pieces we saw in the gallery
(I have a bottle similar to the blue one - his prices are a lot more
than when we purhased them)

Leaving the Verrerie we drove through the outskirts of Biot, and came to an area of beautiful homes and FLAT, wide avenues - amazing for this part of the world. We saw a beautiful home for sale, and out of curiosity, wrote down the name of the agency - just curious - but imagine the price would be in the millions.

The rain had stopped and I suggested we drive to Grasse, which has been the center of the perfume industry for over 400 years.

We went along back roads through Valbone near where there is an enormous technology "park" called Sophia Antipodes. It encompasses over 5,600 acres with about 900 companies involved in electronics, telecommunications, biotechnology, computing, education, etc. It is said to be the Riviera's equivalent of Silicon Valley. Many expats lives in the area to work for companies based in the park. The buildings are all very modern. The center for Air France worldwide reservations is there.

Since it was already 1:30 PM and a Monday and Off-season (and many French restaurants typically close at 2-2:30 PM), Ron decided to stop at one of the first spots we saw open - L'Alliance, just a roadside place with typical bistro food. I don't mind that, but there was zero atmosphere and ordinary food - and prices weren't so reasonable, BUT - the wine, served in cute Biot bubble-flecked purple glasses was GOOD. I had a croque madame (ham, Gruyere cheese, and creme fraiche grilled on bread with an egg atop). Ron had a kind of bruschetta with artichoke hearts, "jambon crudo" (something like proscuitto), and eggplant, but didn't care for the bread. These type of light meals may be the French equivalent of "fast-food" - although McDonalds is ubiquitous, and seems highly popular. (We have managed to avoid it - were tempted once, as we needed internet!)

Croque Madame

Bruschetta

It was not one of those meals to write about! Leaving there, we followed roads with beautiful vistas and soon found ourselves on the outskirts of Grasse, where we went to a Carrefour in a small strip mall. We replenished items we had used of the owners of the house and found some Scotch, wine, eggs and other items we needed.

We then drove into Grasse, which has gorgeous panoramic views. I was hoping to find a particular tunnel where I had a major problem when I was driving there with a friend in 1997. We didn't find that spot, and parking was impossible, so we didn't take time to stop and explore the town, which is a shame, as it is a famous and beautiful city of about 45,000 inhabitants. It is situated on a high limestone plateau looking out at the Mediterranean and the plains where flowers for the perfume industry have traditionally been grown. Today, most perfume flowers are imported from Asia, but the area does still grow a lot of violets. There are still several large perfume factories, and also a huge perfume museum.


We drove along narrow roads with panoramic views through part of the Gorges du Loup - which the French sometimes call their "Grand Canyon".

We came to Tourrettes-sur-Loup. The owners of the home we're staying in had mentioned they thought it was nicer than St, Paul. So, we stopped and meandered. Even though getting late in the day, dismal weather and off-season, it was an interesting spot. It is another perched medieval village where you park outside the ramparts and walk in the narrow lanes. There are many artisans, including weavers, potters, woodworkers, sculptors, and engravers, and we visited some of the workshop/stores. Our big purchase was two hand-painted egg cups. We saw some beautiful wood work.

Entrance to old village is through arch under belfry

A little workshop

Wood shop

Shop where we bought egg cups

It would be lovely to walk around this village when the weather was pleasant, all the cafes and shops were open, and things were a little livelier.

It was beginning to get dark, and we were tired, so made our way "home". That evening we cooked rice and  chicken breasts with a Korma sauce, but it was too sweet - like nothing we've had before.