Day 31 - Nov. 13 - Matisse Chapelle and St. Paul

This was the first beautiful, sunny day. We could actually see the snow-capped Italian Alps from our window.

Just outside our kitchen

We set out for the Chapelle Rosaire (Matisse Chapelle) in Vence. This time it was open. We were surprised the admission fee was now 6 EU per person (about $8 - up from 2.50 EU shown in owner's guidebook). If you wanted a pamphlet, it was an additional 2.50 EU. We went in and a lady who spoke English approached and asked if we would like some information, and proceeded to explain the history, most of which I had read. Henri Matisse had been ill with cancer and had been cared for by a young woman, who later became a Dominican nun. The nuns in Vence had no proper facilities and were conducting their prayers in a garage. When Matisse learned of this situation from his friend, he designed the chapel as a gift to the sisters. He designed every last detail, including the priests vestments. The building is a very simple white box with a roof of blue and white tiles and a 40-ft. wrought-iron cross. Matisse began the design in 1947 at the age of  77, and spent four years working on it, much of the time confined to a wheelchair. Building took place from 1949-51. He considered it the masterpiece of his life.

Matisse Chapelle (blue roof) and Dominican convent to left
(taken from medieval Vence)

Unfortunately, photography wasn't permitted. There were three sets of stained glass windows reflecting light throughout. There were also three "murals" consisting of simple black lines - one representing St. Dominic, one Madonna and child, and one the stations of the cross. The vestments, displayed in an adjacent room, were stunning - bold colors and designs. He even designed the door to the confessional - an elaborate wood-work. Anyone interested in more information or seeing images, can click on this link.

Matisse Chapelle

Passageway into perched village of St. Paul de Vence

From there we drove to St. Paul, parked in the underground garage, and walked to the highly rated Thai restaurant, L'O Thai, only to be greatly disappointed that it had closed for its annual vacation three days earlier. One of the problems not having internet - no way to check on things like this. We walked back to the small restaurat Le Petite Chapelle, as we had noticed a patio that was open, and we thought it would be pleasant to sit in the Sun looking out at the views. The restaurant had a very limited menu written on a black board. I ordered smoked salmon with toast points and Ron ordered penne pisteau (a basil pesto), and we shared. We could have lingered for some time if only they had Wi-Fi.

At Petite Chapelle in St. Paul

View from restaurant

We stopped in a shop near the car park that had Wi-Fi, and sat on their small balcony with a beverage, and chatted with the owner. He had visited NY with his son, and his wife had been to Miami, Naples and Sarasota.  We purchased a long table-cloth for our outdoor "harvest table" and three candlesticks that you place in wine bottles.

That afternoon we had to be home around 2:30 to meet the housekeeper, Sandra, as the owners had told us she would be able to call the internet provider and try to find a solution. However, when she arrived, she told us she had already had contacted them, and that no one could come out until Saturday at 6 PM. Sandra was an attractive young lady - well-dressed with a beautiful scarf around her neck.

We sat outside with our books looking out at the beautiful view.

That evening Ron fixed ground beef with pasta. We settled in for the night. The roads with blind curves, blind drives, and maniac drivers are terrifying to me - so once I am home for the day I am reluctant to venture out again!