Day 40 & 41 - Nov. 22-23 - Off to a hotel - Air France to Washington

As I complete my "journal" (blog), this Anais Nin quotation comes to mind. I will be able to read and reminesce. However, I don't think this particular day is one that needs to be "tasted twice".

A busy morning, tiring and stressful. Once again, too much "stuff" to meet the limitations of the luggage allowance. So, we were busy packing, weighing and repacking. We had come over with four checked bags, and were returning with three because we had come on business class and flying back in economy - so the number of pieces and the weight allowance were both less. After all the packing was completed, we took a break to enjoy the beautiful day on our porch.

We finally left the house about 3 PM, plugged the Novotel Suites location into the GPS and set off. We SELDOM stay at Novotel properties, but this all-suite hotel received better reviews than anything else in the area, and offered a free shuttle to the airport. Upon arriving, we saw no drive-up entry where you could unload the luggage. There happened to be a "petrol" station right next door, so we went there, as Ron had to fill the car before returning it. While he was taking care of that, I walked to the hotel to ask where we should park to unload. Initially, the desk clerk said we needed to go down into the public parking garage under the hotel. When I explained that we would be returning the rental car shortly, he said there were some private spots before you came to the garage entrance. I went back to tell Ron where he needed to take the car, and I went into the hotel "foyer" where you had to pay 1 EU deposit for a "luggage trolley" (the small kind you see at airports) - just like you have to do at grocery stores here. You put the coin into a slot which releases the chain attaching it to the buggy in front of it. This wasn't a good sign - not even a free luggage trolley, let alone a bellman! I got two carts and went outside, where Ron had already pulled up. He went in and checked in, got keys, internet codes, and reserved shuttle for the morning. We then unloaded the car completely and took the luggage up to the room.

It was called a "suite", but Ron calls it a "Japanese suite" - meaning TINY. But, fairly decent bathroom - small but separate walk-in shower. The shower was not so practical, as it had no shelf or recess to place soap, shampoo, etc. The floor in the bath area and separate toilet compartment was teak, and both areas were raised a step from the bedroom. Reminded us of being in a boat - and about the same size.

We kept the trolleys in the room overnight, as I was afraid we might not find one available at 5 AM when we would be in a rush. We didn't feel guilty since we had paid the 2 Euros deposit. Having the trolleys in our path made the room feel even smaller.

I went down to the reception/lounge/bar and watched some of the Davis Cup tennis (Federer was playing), while Ron faced the arduous task of returning the car. He was back quicker than I expected (in the hotel shuttle) and said it had been easier than we thought.

The big problem was that the hotel had no restaurant, and taxi fare into Nice was about $50 each way. I said it wasn't worth it - after paying $100 for a taxi, we could have stayed in the Hyatt in Nice and taken a taxi one-way to the airport for not much more than staying in the desolate Novotel. The area was primarily business offices, and no restaurants nearby were open. We ended up walking in the dark several blocks - through office complexes to the "sister"  Novotel. The restaurant there was open, and I had an omelet which was tasty. Ron had a so-called five-vegetable soup, which he said was luke warm, and more like a pureed pea soup. It was a very bad experience for our final evening of a wonderful trip. It put me in a bad mood, and Ron had to tell me to "quit complaining"!

We really don't understand all the good reviews of the hotel. I need to get busy and write one of my own on tripadvisor.

We were up at 4 AM, and in the lobby before 5 AM. We took the hotel shuttle to the airport, and checked in. I had pre-paid on-line for checking one extra suitcase. Everything went smoothly, and we were finished and through security by 5:30 AM.

It was about 1 1/2-hours to Paris. Again, at Charles DeGaulle, a LONG walk to another terminal. Surprisingly, there was no decent restaurant. We had been hoping to "fortify" ourselves with something decent to eat, and not have to partake of airline food!

The flight boarded around 1 PM. Our pre-assigned seats had been terrible, and I'd been able to change them on-line so we both had aisle seats - however, not together. Ron was directly behind me, so it wasn't bad. He was lucky and had a vacant middle seat next to him. I had a cheese multi-grain rissotto for lunch and Ron had chicken in a sherry vinegar sauce, which he said was pretty good. I had bought a Sudoku book in the airport and occupied myself with that for awhile. Watched a couple movies including "And So It Goes" with Michael Douglas and Diane Keaton. It gets horrible reviews, but kept me entertained. Also watched a French movie with sub-titles, "The Finishers".

Arrived in Washington on-time (4:20 PM), and were very happy with using our Global Entry status to scan our passports at a kiosk and whisk quickly through Immigration and Customs with NO standing in lines.

Ron had a notion to rent a car so we could go to Sweetwater Tavern (too far for hotel shuttle), but he checked on the phones in the terminal, and the going rate was around $80. We decided just to take the shuttle to the hotel and see what was nearby for dinner. The Embassy Suites Herndon was very nice for that brand - not run-down as some of them are. The lobby was attractive with pools with swans floating around. The room was very large (especially compared to Novotel Suites). There was a "happy hour" going on from 5:30-7:30 PM with complimentary drinks and nibbles. By the time we did that, Ron was too tired to go out, and we went up to the room. Had an early night since we had to get up at 4:00 AM to catch our flight to Atlanta. All went fine, except that my boarding pass was stamped TSA-Pre-check, and Ron's wasn't - even though we had both registered (and paid) for the program. So, I breezed through security with my laptop in its bag, coat and shoes on - while Ron had to go through the rigamarole. Our flight was on time into Atlanta, and now it is back to the "daily grind", and planning for the next sojourn.

Day 39 - Nov. 21 - Mougins - Our last night in "our" house

The reality of our time in Europe drawing to a close couldn't be avoided. We had to get out the suitcases and begin packing. Quite a task!

We left the house at 11 AM and drove to Mougins to a store where we were trying to find something. The GPS could not find the address and if we entered the name of the store, it  kept trying to send us back to Antibes. We finally decided to have lunch first and worry about the store afterward. Getting accustomed to the narrow window of opening hours here is not easy - even though we've lived with it previously. Many restaurants only serve lunch from noon-2:00 PM, and many stores are closed from 12:30-2:40 PM. You always have to be aware, not assume (as we would in the US) that things will always be open.

We had passed by the Moulin de Mougins, which was very famous at one time - Roger Verge, considered one of the greatest chefs of all time, opened it in 1969 and by 1974 had attained 3-Michelin stars. Verge had moved on to open other restaurants and retired in 2003. The current chef, Erwan Louaisil, has worked in many Michelin restaurants, including for Alain Ducasse in Paris and Daniel Bolud in NY, but as yet has not been awarded a star at the Moulin. Prices will probably go up if he does!

I had read mostly good reviews, but knew there were some less expensive places that might be as good or better. But, it seemed they were all in the old village - up the hill with difficult roads and parking, which Ron did not want to face.

The building is very attactive - a 16th century mill. The dining room was quite stark, but chic, as it was totally white - white walls, ceilings, beams, table cloths, and even dishes. There was modern art on the walls, as well as photographs of celebrities who had been frequent guests, such as Elizabeth Taylor. The terrace and gardens were lovely. We both chose the 2-course menu for 31 EU. As is generally the case, French restaurants offer a "menu" at lunch which provides good value compared to their ala carte list, and especially compared to dinner. Of course, wine, mineral water and coffee is extra. If we had ordered ala carte, the cost would have been more than double. Even so, this was our biggest "splurge" in our six weeks of travel. The foie gras was beautifully presented and one of the most delicious things we've ever tasted. Made me realize my taste buds are not totally dead (as I sometimes felt after nothing seemed to taste good for months after surgery).

Amuse bouche - the waiter didn't explain it properly -
I THINK it was a kind of pea mousse atop "lardon" (bacon fat puree)
Sounds terrible - but tasted great

The absolute best and most beautful dish we've had this trip
(Duck Foie Gras terrine, marbled orange and chocolate, bourbon
vanilla puff pastry) - Heavenly! 

Mary's sea bass with dill and aniseed butter, served with
a braised fennel mousse

Ron's "Blanquette de Veau" - traditional veal stew
served with rice pilaf

Petit Fours in the lounge after lunch

In the lounge

The hostess at the reception desk helped us with directions to the store we were looking for, and printed out a map for us. That was our next stop, and getting there was not easy. With the traffic and the round-abouts, you really have to know EXACTLY where to leave the circle, or you will end up making another circuit blocks around the area. Unfortunately, the item we were looking for has to be special ordered.

Old town of Valbonnes

We continued toward "home". Ron found a parking spot in the town of Valbonne and we walked into the old town, which we hadn't even realized existed. Valbonne means "happy valley" (from the Latin). The town is quite charming - we loved the main square with its 15th-17th century arcades and big elm trees, surrounded by many cafes. After walking ten blocks or so through the town, we returned to the square and sat under an arcade for a drink. Lots of people around us were speaking English - residents, I think, as this is not far from the big technology park where many expats work.

Marie (town hall) - Valbonne

Main Square - Valbonne

Looking under the grape vine from cafe 

We soon headed back toward the house, stopping at the boulangerie for a baguette and the presse for the "International NY Times". That evening we had a delicious cheese fondue with the crusty baguette. We had lots to do with organizing our luggage, leaving the house in tidy condition, double-checking travel details, etc. It was hard to prepare myself for a return to "reality"!

Day 38 - Nov. 20 - Airport, Lunch in Nice, and Lots of Walking

I was up at 7 AM, and after some projects, washing my hair, etc. we were finally ready to depart by 9:15 AM. We had an errand to do in Antibes - left to another time to explain. It was a futile trip there, and we ended up backtracking to stop at PAUL in Villeneuve Loubet for a capuccino, tea, and a shared ham and cheese baguette. PAUL (a sort of boulangerie/cafe) was a nice place we ejoyed when we had the farm in the Loire Valley, and that is the primary reason we stopped in - memories. However, this PAUL wasn't quite the same - no hot breakfast offerings, and decor not nearly as nice. Paul began as a small bakery near Lille in 1889, and is still a family-owned businesses with locations throughout the world, including Washington DC, London, Singapore and Moscow.

We continued from there to Nice Airport, the third largest in France (after Charles DeGaulle and Orly in Paris), and handles about 12 million passengers annually. The morning was unbelievable trying to figure out how we could manage to check in for our flight on Sunday with the least hassle. The parking garages were extensive, and the lanes extremely narrow, and the spaces created for miniature cars! People get frustrated and park illegally, making traversing the small rows even more difficult. Ron pulled into one spot, and I had to get out since there would have been no room to exit the car otherwise. He came so close to the post beside us, I screamed for him to stop and said, "Let's find another spot!" After driving VERY SLOWLY through floor after floor, connected by little "bridges" to more floors after floors, we finally found a spot, which happened to be close to the elevators to the terminals. (Wish I had taken pictures of the horrible parking facilities.) We were only there to "suss" things out - just think if we were anxious to catch a flight - we (especially ME) would have been a nervous wreck! We went into Terminal 2 where we will be departing from on Sunday.

We were trying to determine if there was a place to store luggage, as we thought we could take the big bags ahead of time and return the rental car, and spend the night in a nearby hotel. I had read conflicting reports on-line - the official airport site says it is only possible in Terminal 1. But, several people had written on forums that you could also store luggage in arrivals of Terminal 2 at a "service center" near the aquarium. However, after asking at an information desk (and being told it wasn't possible) and looking all around the "aquarium" area, we found nowhere to leave luggage. The terminals were very far apart - so storing in Terminal 1 would have made no sense. So,  Plan "A" was scratched off!

Ron hadn't really been in favor of the hotel plan (my idea), and thought it would work out to leave the house at 6 AM and drop me at the curb, and return the car while I waited. This is our usual modus operandi. So, we went outside to see where Ron would need to drop me off with the luggage before returning the rental car - and discovered that private vehicles are not allowed to stop for unloading anywhere near the entrance to the terminal. We really couldn't believe this was true, and spent a lot of time looking, reading signs, etc. Only buses and taxis could come directly to the curb. Ron actually walked to the beginning of the road, as he thought he might "slip" by, but there was a "boom gate" controlling access. There were some far "ouside" lanes, but they were also such that stopping for more than a few seconds was impossible. Someone with just a carry-on bag could hop out, but there was no way to unload "real" luggage. So, Plan B was also out the window.

Then we set off for the car rental facility to see how difficult it would be to drop the car and then put all the luggage on a cart and walk to the terminal. This proved to be a LONG WAY, and in many places wasn't covered - so a rainy morning would have been problematic - trying to push heavy luggage while holding an umbrella. So, Plan C did not seem feasible either.

It appeared the only solution  (and what most people seem to do) would be to park the car in the vast parking garages, get a trolley, take it to the terminal, check in, go back to the garage, then return the rental car, then walk back to the terminal. That sounds like a hassle and time-consuming, but possible, BUT having seen how difficult it can be to find a parking spot (we drove around at LEAST 15-minutes to find one) - we decided that wasn't good either. Suppose there were no spots to be found and time for the flight was getting near!

We were quite "flummoxed". We have traveled all over the world, and have never encountered such a passenger-unfriendly airport! We decided that it would be best to get a hotel and have the shuttle or taxi drop us at the terminal.

We were at the airport about 2 hours in all - quite a waste of a morning, but a good thing we did it. We could have had a nasty surprise if we'd shown up Sunday thinking things would be easy!

We finally left there very frazzled, and realized we no longer had a few extra hours to drive in the hills above Nice - so headed to Cours Selaya parking garage in the old town of Nice, and arrived here about 12:15.

We walked through the streets, and arrived at our lunch appointment a bit early - Olive Et Artichaut.

Beautiful roses in Cours Selaya flower market

It is a tiny place owned by husband and wife, and the kitchen is tiny, and amazing what food they produce from such a small space. It reminds us of our friend, Helen, who owned a restaurant in Melbourne. Her kitchen was about the same size. The menu changes every day, and unfortunately, this wasn't one of the days when I was real enthusiastic about the choices. However, everything was good, just not memorable, and it was an interesting experience.

Terrine de Foie Gras Maison

Pumpkin and chestnut soup

Mary's Filet of Liche (something like albacore) on bed of barley
with a lemon confit

Ron's rissotto with spicy sausage and scallops

Credit card machine used by restaurant staff almost
everywhere in Central Europe - so your
credit card is never out of your sight

Place Massena and Mediterranean Sea from Galeries Lafayette

After lunch we walked a LONG way. We left the old city and walked through the beautiful Place Massena, an Italianate-style square which originated in 1815. We went into the Galeries Lafayette, a 5-story department store, to look for a few items. One of the main things was a certain flavor of Nespresso coffee to replace what we had used of the house owners. We went up the escalators, so saw much more of the store than we needed to - especially since it was very warm. We find many European stores are over-heated in cool months. On the top floor in the housewares department there were many models of Nespresso machine, but no coffee pods. Also, unusual for major department stores in Europe, there was no basement level "gourmet" grocery store.  I was getting tired and cranky from being too warm, and went into the fifth floor restaurant, La Table, to relax and have a beverage. However, they weren't licensed to serve wine (or any alcohol) without a meal. The views were superb, and I was able to take a couple good photos. Ron eventually came and had a capuccino.

Leaving there, we walked up the pedestrian streets, Rue Massena and Rue de France. We walked along Rue Paradis, where all the luxury brand stores seemed to be located. As we came back to Place Massena, we finally happened upon a Nespresso store that we had been looking for, as we wanted to replace coffee pods Ron had used. The "boutique" was very busy with numerous displays of machines and coffees, as well as a cafe. It seems there is almost a "cult" of Nespresso enthusiasts, who visit the "boutiques" around the world. They did have the "Arpeggio" flavor Ron wanted, and the girl was taken aback that he only wanted two boxes (narrow, long boxes holding 10 pods each). Most people apparently buy LOTS.

We then walked into the Albert 1 garden, the oldest in Nice, and sat by the "Three Graces" fountain by Volti. Further along in the garden, which we could see from our bench, is a greenway with a huge black metal arc, which is a sculpture by the modern artist, Bernar Venet.

Once we were rested, we continued walking into the Promenade du Paillon, the new (2013) greenway which revitalized this area of Nice. One of its central features is the "mirror water" where there are jets of water.


I managed to "walk on the water" (as they call it) while the mists were enveloping the area - very NEAT! I missed the thickest of the mists, whch were already receding by the time we got there. However, best not to linger too long, as soon the jets of water will spray you! The water feature is very large and the surrounding buildings are reflected in the shallow water.

We walked back into the old city, and went to Place Rossetti to get a gelato at the famous Finocchio, only to find it had already closed. It was in full swing when we were there a few days ago, but I do recall reading something about it closing in mid-November for the season. We then went several more blocks to the Distilleries Ideales where we had been previously, and sat outside on the sidewalk watching the people go by.

It was then time to retrieve the car from the underground garage and make our way back to St. Paul. As we drove out along the Promenade Anglais on the sea, I kicked myself that I hadn't remembered the cute cafes and bistros along the way with balconies where one could sit and enjoy the sunset over the Riviera! Instead we viewed it from our windshield, creeping through rush-hour traffic.

We passed the famous Belle-Epoque Negresco Hotel, built in 1912 for the Hungarian businessman, Henri Negresco, who later went bankrupt and died at 52. The hotel had been turned into a hospital during WWI, and tourism did not revive quickly after the war, and the hotel was siezed by creditors. It is filled with collections of art work, and is touted as one of the finest hotels in the world. Unfortunately, I have read some recent reviews that were less than flattering. We had lunch there quite a few years ago with an Australian friend, who loved the place. The hotel and its famous pink dome were designed by Edouard-Jean Niermans, the architect of the society crowd of the time. In the Royal Lounge hangs an enormous Baccarat chandelier with 16,309 crystals.

Hotel Negresco on Promenade Anglais
We bid "au revoir" to Nice

We drove directly "home", put on our "comfies", had a bowl of Thai soup, and called it a night.

Day 37 - Nov. 19 - East to Villefranche-sur-Mer and St. Jean Cap Ferrat

After breakfast of fried eggs and rice, I did some laundry and other chores, so we didn't get an early start.

It was a beautiful day, and we drove along the sea through Nice, and headed to Villefranche-sur-Mer, which is located between Nice and Cap Ferrat. To give an idea of the traffic and roads, the GPS indicated it was 13 miles, but would take us 46-minutes. With urban "spread", today it is considered a "suburb" of Nice. The fortifications were built around 1560.  It is situated on a slope above the deepest harbor in the Mediterranean - up to 320-feet deep with an "abyss" just south reaching 1,700-feet. Huge cruise ships can come into the harbor, and over 150 ships visit each year, making it the most frequently visited cruise port in France. Of interest to Americans, the 6th fleet was based here from 1948 until 1966 when DeGaulle withdrew France from NATO.

Mary at La Mayssa with
Fort du Mont Alban in background

As we drove into the old port area, Ron spotted a roof-top terrace restaurant, and said, "Let's go there." We found a parking lot nearby, and got a table on the sunny terrace of the Mayssa Beach restaurant. Many people were in short-sleeve shirts. As expected in a place with a "million-dollar view", the menu prices were rather expensive. I had in mind a little bistro I had read about, so I rejected any responsibility for the bill! The selection was limited. We were served a tasty tapenade with bread.  I ordered an appetizer which was something like the crab towers Ron prepares at home - crab, avocado, tomato, olive oil. It was tasty, but not as good as what we make at home. Ron had a simple linguine with tomato.


Sitting on the terrace we observed the people around us and noticed several examples of the "May-December" relationship, something that seems much more common in Europe and Asia than in the US. Ron said some of these pairs looked more like a "February-December" relation - with young women clinging demonstrably to some older gentlemen approaching or in their 80's.

Crab, avocado, tomato, olive oil with basil

Ron's ordinary $20 linguine

Chapelle St-Pierre

After lunch we walked across to the old town, and walked up into the narrow alleys, following the small Rue du Poilu through the village. We saw the medieval Chapelle St-Pierre (St. Peter's Chapel) which was used for a long time for storing fishing nets until it was renovated in 1957. The artist, writer, playwright, Jean Cocteau, painted the frescoes.

Mary making it up the hill

Once we got to a certain point, we had no choice but to continue walking UP. The little alleys were mostly deserted, but offered interesting "peeks" through passageways down to the sea. The colors of the buildings, the sea, and often with laundry hanging from balconies made quite a picture. Our camera is not good enough to capture multiple layers of depth.

From terrace of Carpaccio

Once we finally walked down about 60-stairs back to flat ground, we stopped at a cafe to sit outside looking at the views. The cafe was Carpaccio, which in years past was a well-known haunt of the folks with Rolls Royces and Bentleys. From what I've read it is no longer in favor, but it was a great spot for a drink, view and Wi-Fi.

Along the waterfront in Villefranche-sur-Mer

 

We watched this commercial fisherman hauling ice for his fish in a bin  down the street

The fishing industry that was so important in Villefranche is dying out, as new regulations, rising fuel prices, and other factors cause fishermen to give it up or at least move to less expensive areas. We were surprsed to read that Villefranche is one of the most desirable areas on the Med, and homes on the waterfront may sell for 100 Million EUROS or more. Most the of the buyers are Eastern European, mostly Russians. What happened to this picture - when the US was the wealthy country in the 1960's and 70's, and the Russians were standing in soup lines? They are building lots of "faux" villas here now - modern structures meant to resemble the old villas - for the "nouveaux riche".

We walked several "blocks" back to the car, and next drove to St. Jean Cap Ferrat (another hugely expensive area), where we switched from our sauntering, cafe-mode to being a tourist, and visited the Villa Ephrussi-de-Rothschild. Beatrice Rothschild was 19 when she married Maurice Ephrussi, who was 15 years older than she. Her family was wealthier, but approved the marriage as they thought he would be "useful" in helping them build trade with Russia. He was a BIG gambler and by 1904 his debts amounted to the equivalent of 30 Million Euros today. He was also a "philanderer" and gave her an STD which prevented her from ever having children. After about 20 years of marriage, the Rothschilds managed to win a separation. Afterward Beatrice built this villa. She planned every detail of it, including about 17-acres of gardens in nine different styles. It was one of the most impressive villas we have seen - nicer than some of the royal palaces.

Beatrice was a woman after my own heart. She built her villa close to Monaco, as women were allowed into the casino there to gamble, which was forbidden in France. She loved to play backgammon and poker! I would have been happy to attend the parties she held at her villa for these activities. She also believed in all the modern conveniences (well before they became common), and had full bathrooms fitted for each bedroom in the villa. She also had an elevator and forced-air heating And, she was one of the few people to have the "new-fangled" telephone, which most "aristocrats" did not like.  She had it in her boudoir and was available for anyone to call. Speaking of her boudoir - it was on the main floor near the salons and reception areas. Ron said he wondered why it was so close, and I said, "It seems practical since she was fond of parties - if she had a few too many glasses of wine, she wouldn't have to climb the stairs."

She also belonged to a flying club, played tennis, attended boxing matches, rode horses, skated, and loved the horse races and had her own stable. Ladies of her time didn't usually participate in these activities.

She also seemed to have some eccentricities - such as having a menagerie of animals around here including  poodles, monkeys, a mongoose, and parrots.  She had miniature expensive furniture made for them, held conversations with them, and at one time even organized an enormous formal wedding for two poodles. You would have to read about it to believe it!

I would definitely enjoy learning more about this unique woman.

The collections she had inside are astouding - things from Marie Antoinette, Aubusson rugs, rugs from Kings and Popes, Chinoiserie, Meissen china, and on and on. We weren't interested in all the details, but it was amazing what she had amassed. She bequeathed it all to some sort of French organization for the preservation of the arts.

We drove out, back through Nice during rush-hour traffic (leaves my stomach in knots), and went into Cagnes-sur-Mer where we had programmed the address for a Vietnamese restaurant which is rated #2 of ALL restaurants in the city. We were on the correct street, but were not able to find it. After a few attempts - which is much more difficult than I can describe - I said, "Let's get a baguette and have some tuna." Ron agreed, and off we went to our boulangerie. We decided we would try the Vietnamese place another day.

It was about 6:30 when we reached there, and when Ron ordered "un baguette", the lady said they were already finished and offered us another stick of bread (don't know what it was called). Ron took it and got in the line for the cashier. Shortly, a lady behind the counter said to Ron - words to the effect - that they now had fresh baguettes and would he like to exchange. He said "Oui", and the lady in front of him in line said she would take the one he had, and grabbed it from him.  It was quite funny.

We then made our way home. By the time I get there, my fingers and toes all feel like they are numb from all the stressful "cramping" I do at every blind turn. I am the ultimate "white-knuckle rider". At least in a plane you aren't seeing every danger approaching you! Ron would like silence as he concentrates - instead he gets my constant, "Yike", "Ei!", "Watch out", "the wall is too close" and so forth. We need a video of some of these drives!

The baguette was hot and fresh, and the tuna (made with American mayo and Starkist tuna we had transported across the ocean) hit the spot.  That was our day. A great day, but Ron was snoozing on the sofa, while I read and worked on blog until midnight.

Day 36 - Nov. 18 - Valbonne, Mougins - Lazy Day - Mostly Eating

After Ron returned from the boulangerie we had a nice breakfast with fresh figs roasted with goat cheese, goose liver pate (can't make an accent mark in this program), and of course, the crispy baguette.

Chateau de la Begude - Opio

We left the house about 11 AM headed for Mougins, another perched village, which is considered to be a "smart address" and also a center for fine dining - in season that is! We took our time along the back roads - as much as possible with people tailgating even when you are doing the speed limit. We saw a Chateau hotel golf course resort and pulled in - initially to be rid of a tailgater. We drove in to have a look, and ended up having a drink on the patio since it was a beautiful day and beautiful setting. The Chateau de la Begude in the small town of Opio is a 4*-hotel and apparently has a top chef - gets great reviews.

We continued on our way, following the GPS. After missing a turn on one of the many round-abouts, we noticed a busy restaurant, and decided to have a look. Le Bois Dore in Valbonne had a good menu, not outrageously priced, and looked very attractive, so we gave it a try. It was a good choice, as our meal was great and the restaurant's ambiance was lovely. A bit slow service, but that is dining in France. We were there just over TWO hours. The six Dutch gentlemen at a table nearby were there when we arrived, and were still there when we left - they seemed to be having a good time (Ron said "solving the problems of the world").

The "veloute" of vegetables

We were immediately served an amuse-bouche which was described as a "veloute de legumes" with a heart-shaped biscuit of some sort. A "veloute" is defined as a soup thickened with egg yolks, butter and cream; however this was more like a "mousse" or custard and served cold. Interesting, but rather bland.

I ordered the "Market Menu", 3-courses for a quite reasonable 29 EU, and Ron ordered an entrecote with green peppercorn sauce. We also shared a bottle of Loire Valley Muscadet (a nice, dry first cru).

Pepper and chorizo tart

My first course was a tartelette au poivrons en ecailles de chorizo with a side salad (given to Ron). The pastry of the tart was very thin and flaky, and the peppers and chorizo sausage were spicier than I had expeted. Unusual and tasty.

The second course was brochette de poulet marine au citron (chicken skewers marinated with lemon) and a side dish called "gratin de crozets". Crozets are small squares of pasta found in the Savoie Region - made with wheat flour - and typically cooked with cheese and cream. Surprisingly, we had never had them before.

Chicken skewers and "gratin de crozets"

Ron's entrecote and "frites de paniss maison"

Ron's entrecote (about 8-oz) was quite tough, but the meat was tasty, as was the peppercorn sauce. It was served with "frites de paniss maison" (seen at left behind the cup of sauce). These looked like a fried potato stick, but we later learned it is actually made with chickpea flour and olive oil - the same ingredients of the socca we tried in Nice. It was also accompanied by "puree de potimarron". We knew the word "marron" from German to be chestnut, but Ron said it tasted like pumpkin. Later research proved him right - it was a pumpkin puree.

YUM!

The piece-de-resistance was my third course - a selection from the extensive dessert menu. I chose Le Moelleux Chocolat Chaud with Creme Anglaise - a hot chocolate "molten" cake with vanilla sauce. The plate was drizzled with carmel sauce. I seldom order dessert, but it was heavenly. No dinner for me tonight! (We first had this dessert in Reims about 15+ years ago, and have never had one quite as good - but this came awfully close!








The restaurant decor was simple, but attractive, with many lamps casting a warm glow. Ecru table cloths, waiters all in black, comfortable brown leather chairs with arms. Modern art on the walls. "Trompe l'oeil" shutters and eyebrow arches painted around the windows. Most of the gentlemen patrons were wearing jackets, and some ties.



We were ready for a nap when we left the restaurant, but we still had to see the village of Mougins. It was nearby, and we found a place to park and walked into the village. One of the brasseries I had read about was actually open, and looked very nice, but many places were closed.

Picasso lived in Mougins the last 12-years of his life. Ferdnand Leger also had a studio here.Many artists and celebrities have spent time here, and during the annual Cannes Film Festival, many celebrities stay in Mougins. Several famous chefs, including Roger Verge and Alain Ducasse, have operated restaurants here. There are still some Michelin-starred restaurants.

We walked through the lanes, and went into the small church, which we thought was picturesque with the pipe organ and paintings. I haven't been able to learn any history about it.

Ron outside Mougins "Marie" (town hall)

Beautfiul tree with small "canal" with steps runing along the hill

We made our way back to the car and set the GPS for "home". Another pleasant day.

That evening we had a game of gin rummy. We have played a few times, and Ron has won by a landslide.