Day 17 - Oct. 30 - District 13, Vienna Woods - not much excitement today

Another leisurely morning - a plentiful home-cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs with cheese, crusty baguettes with Alpen butter, tomato, avocado, cheese and salami. Not to mention a very nice Prosecco from Treviso.

I had laundry and computer projects to do. Ron went to the small SPAR grocery nearby.

In Park Hotel Schonbrunn

We walked to Wien Mitte, and took the U-Bahn to Heiligenstadt to pick up the car. We then set off down another memory lane. Went to the Schonbrunn area, and had lunch at the Park Hotel Schonbrunn. We used to go there every time we were in Vienna, and I always had the most delicious shrimp. The hotel is now part of the Austria Trend group, and had recently undergone a 2-year  renovation. Unfortunately, to our taste, the charm of the hotel is gone. The atmosphere is somewhat impersonal and cold. They host a lot of business functions. The service in the restaurant was indifferent and inattentive. Once our meal was served (after a long wait), no one came to ask if everything was fine or offer us another beverage. Ron had a gulash soup and salad. I ordered a chicken breast, which I couldn't eat - very tough, and a strange consistency. At Ron's urging, I did send it back. The waiter said he would bring me a menu to choose something else. By the time he came back, Ron was finished with his meal, and I didn't see anything I couldn't resist. They did take it off the bill.

Chicken Breast

We had decided we didn't need another tour of Schonbrunn. But, Hietzing (13th District) where the palace is located is very beautiful, and we drove on narrow one-way streets past many blocks of Biedermier and other style villas. Very interesting to anyone who loves these gorgeous old buildings. Just sorry we weren't able to take any photos. As Schonbrunn grew from the 17th- to 19th-centuries, the surrounding area grew with nobility, civil servants, officers and others needing to live nearby. The district became (and remains) the wealthiest district - with the highest level of education and the lowest percentage of foreign residents. The beauty of the area rivals that of  the inner city. Unfortunately, many of the other districts and outlying areas of Vienna are quite unattractive (putting it mildly).

Ron had asked the hotel desk for a cute place to visit in the nearby Vienna Woods, and he jotted down a suggestion. We drove there, and it was a big disappointment. Very sterile coffee shop - no personality or gemutlichkeit. White formica tables and white chairs. Think it is just a place people hiking in the woods stop. We didn't linger long.

Driving back we happened to go through Neustift-am-Wald, an area with numerous heurigers. It is supposed to be more frequented by locals, and less touristy than Grinzing. This was more the "gemutlich" we were looking for, and after a rather hair-raising drive above the town, finally got back to the center and secured a parking spot. We noted that parking was only for patrons of the Wolff Heuriger, so that is where we went. It was a neat place, but some of the others we saw walking around afterward look even nicer and more popular. We hope to have time to go back one evening. The owners of the apartment where we are staying said their favorite heuriger is in Neustift, so we will try it.

In Heuriger Wolff

With very strict laws here about blood alcohol content while driving, Ron couldn't partake of the "new" wine - so our visit was short.

We made it safely back into the city and parked the car in a garage near the apartment. It was a bit of a challenge finding our way out and onto the correct street to take us home. Once we went up in an elevator we were in a vast, deserted building with many corridors.

Climbed our 25-steps to "home".  Ron had to go back and move the car after a few hours, as overnight parking was extremely expensive, and after 10 PM parking on the street was permitted (and free) until 9 AM. We also wanted the car near the apartment so we could pack up quickly in the morning.

Day 16 - Oct. 29 - Enjoyed an interesting day in Vienna

Wednesday (Oct. 29)



After a quick piece of toast and cheese, I went over to Salon Melissa for my hair appointment. Another good experience. Went back to the apartment, and Ron and I set off on Tram #1 to Franz Josephs Kai on the Donau Kanal (Danube Canal). We walked a bit to the Pan-Asian restaurant MyKai for an early lunch. My Kai had been recommended as a favorite by the owners of our apartment. Ron ordered Pho, which was nicely presented with extra fresh basil (aromatic and delicious), chopped hot chillis, and lime. I had chicken in a ginger, rice wine sauce. It was a bit too sweet for my taste. It came with a cup of pumpkin soup, which I gave to Ron, and he said it was very good.

Pho

Ginger, rice wine chicken

Grand staircase

Next we hurried to the U-Bahn stop at Shottenring and rode to Rathaus (City Hall) to arrive in time for the free 1 PM tour. It is no wonder we are tired tonight - the first part of the tour involved climbing about 100 stairs, but at least they weren't steep!

The Rathaus was built from 1872-1883 in Neo-Gothic style. The German architect, Friedrich von Schmidt won the commission for the project in a competition. He had previously worked on the Cologne Cathedral.

The first room we visited was the Festsaal, which is one of the largest rooms in Austria, and where special functions, concerts, and balls are held. One of the events is the Life Ball, a charitable event for AIDS research, which is almost as famous as the Wiener Opernball. It is one of the biggest charitable events in the world, and televised internationally. There are only 3,780 tickets, and they are made available through some type of pre-registration "lotto" and sold over a two-day period. It seems last year there were over 65,000 applications to obtain one of the tickets.

The room is beyond my ability to describe - other than to say it is spectacular with barrel-vaulted ceiling with gold leaf, intricate parquet floors, and a myriad of enormous crystal chandeliers.

Festsaal

We walked through several reception rooms where preparations were taking place to serve a large group of some sort. There were buffet tables and platters with dozens of small sandwiches. Two of these reception rooms were the Coat of Arms Halls, with intricate coffered ceilings and massive chandeliers. The audio guide said that each chandelier in this room was valued at over $130,000.

Council Chambers

We were then ushered into the Council chambers and were able to sit in leather chairs at wooden "counters" where the city representatives meet. Their names were posted in front of each seat, alongside a locked drawer for each of them. This room was also incredibly beautiful with another spectacular chandelier. This is over 15-feet in diameter wih 213 lights and weighs over 3 Tons.

We had a look at the famous spire topped by the iron "Rathausman" statue, which is about 17-feet tall, including its flag. It was added to the spire by the achitect as a way to circumvent the Emperor's edict that no secular building in the city should be higher than the tallest church.  It has a practical purpose as well as decorative in that it serves as the lightning rod for the building.

The platz (square) in front of the Rathaus is used for public events throughout the year. In December the Christmas Market is held there. In January, it is turned into an ice-skating rink. There are music fests and a film fest to name a few.

The tour took less than an hour, but was very informative and we were glad we had taken the time to visit.

We then had to take the U-Bahn out to Heiliginstadt once again, as the parking ticket for the car was going to expire. When we arrived there I went to sit and study our maps while Ron went to the car. When he got back he was exasperated, as you had to have EXACT change for the parking ticket. He had 3 EU 10 in coins, and it wanted only 3 EU. So, we found a little beer place in the station, ordered a beverage, and he got the proper change, left me and went back to pay for the ticket.

After he returned and we finished our drinks, we again boarded the U-4 and returned to Schwedenplatz. We walked along Rotenturmstrasse and through the Hoher Markt, the oldest square in Vienna. Most of the palaces around the square were destroyed in WWII and not reconstructed. This is the art noveau Ankeruhr (Anchor Clock) on the bridge linking the buildings of Anchor Insurance Company. Twelve historical figures move across the bridge, and at noon all of them "parade" acompanied by music. The Wedding Fountain statue is also in this square.

Even a small confiserie like this has a chandelier!

All the "lux" fashion brands

We continued to Bognerstrasse, stopping along the way to buy socks and newspapers. This area of the city is the up-market shopping district, and a few blocks have a very modern appearance.

The Viennese equivalent of Victoria's Secret - Notice the "riding crops"

Ball Gown

Not my favorite - checked shirt with plaid suit! Seen in an exclusive men's store

Our destination was the Schwarzen Kameel, one of the oldest restaurants in Vienna. It has been in existence since 1618, and has always been known as a place for "foodies" and for people-watching .

Exterior "Zum Schwarzen Kameel" (Black Camel)

Some of our sandwiches

Part of the bar

We had small sandwiches and drinks in the deli/bar area. The place was very busy with mostly standing-room only. We did snag two seats at a table, but it was reserved for 6 PM, so we had a "deadline". We enjoyed our time there.

We then walked to Altmann & Kuehne, a  tiny confisserie/chocolatier on the Graben. It was established in 1928. . Known for their chocolates presented in ornate little boxes called "Naschkastel". These containers look like chests of drawers, hat boxes, bookcases, etc. They are all individually wrapped in specially designed paper. They make a miniature line of chocolate called "Liliputkonfekt". The boxes would make beautiful gifts, but are terribly expensive. We purchased a few truffles. To see some of the beautiful products:
Altmann & Kuehne

Windw of Altmann & Kuehne

We stopped in another large chocolate shop on our way to the Tram, and purchased the famous Mozart kugeln and a few other treats.

Around 10 PM we decided to go over to our local cafe for a nightcap, and Ron tried a wild cherry schnapps.

Day 15 - Tuesday - Oct. 28 - Walking and eating our way around Vienna

We had read that is fun to have breakfast at the Naschmarkt, so we set out to do just that. I had to stop at the hair salon, as I had forgotten the time for my appointment tomorrow. In front of the salon, Tram #2 stopped - it is NOT scheduled to stop there. But, we got on, and it was good, as it went the other way around the Ring, which took us to our stop much sooner than our usual Tram #1.

Once we got to the Opernring, Ron remembered about the Bus 59A, and we managed to find the stop for that. It took us directly to the Naschmarkt. We walked and loked at all the beautiful foods. Stopped into Cafe Do-An. Funny thing - we ordered ruhreier (scrambled eggs), but the waitress (with a low-cut blouse and stud in pierced lip) said only spiegeleier (fried eggs). We ended up having tea and cappucino and strolling further through the market. We bought some walnuts and black pumpkin seeds, and were tempted by figs and other items, but didn't want to carry things all day.






We stopped in another cafe, Azzurro, and decided Kenny's suggestion was good - start the day with champagne. So, we ordered a glass of Prosecco each. Ron then ordered penne arrabiata (spicy), and I realized we were now having LUNCH rather than breakfast, so I ordered truffle rissotto.

Starting the day with Prosecco at the Naschmarkt

Interior of small Cafe Azzurro

Truffled rissotto

Penne Arrabiatta

After "brunch" we continued walking in the Naschmarkt. Some of the buildings along the street were so pretty. The facades of "ordinary" buildings that we know nothing about are so ornate. Anyone that is particularly interested in the Naschmarkt may want to look at this blogger's site:
Wandering Epicures - Naschmarkt
They have dozens of photos of all the gorgeous food to be found there.

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We walked to the end of the Naschmarkt which brought us to the Kettenbruckensgasse U-Bahn stop. We took the U-2 to Karlsplatz, walked a LONG way in an underground passage, and changed to another U-Bahn, which delivered us to Rathausplatz. We had planned to tour the Rathaus at 1 PM, as the little booklet said this was available every day. Since it was only noon, we stopped at the Cafe Eintsein, which is popular with professors and students, as the university is nearby.

Mary in front of Cafe Einstein at Rathausplatz (with new earmuffs)

Photo of Einstein behind booth opposite ours

After a brief stop there, we went to the Info booth at the Rathaus, where the people told us the tour is only held on Wednesday! We are losing all confidence in the maps and guidebooks here!

We continued walking in the area, enjoying the beauty of the man-made architecture, although not quite as much as we appreciate the beauty of nature in the mountains, rivers, and forests.

I spotted a small cafe I had heard of, and suggested it would be a plan to stop in each and every cafe, bar, hotel, and restaurant. Of course that would take years since there are so many places here! We did choose to stop into this one, Cafe Sluka which has been a conditorei (pastry shop) since 1891.

Ron's lemon meringue pie and cappuccino

Mary's cognac "ball" and chocolate "nougat"

From there we boarded Tram #71, and rode to the end of the line to the Zentralfriedhof (central cemetary) in Simmering. The cemetary is the largest in Europe with over 3.2 million people interred there. They are still averaging 20-25 burials per day. Some history:  it opened in 1874 and at that time was far outside the city limits. Initially, horse-drawn trams transported people there, but in the early 1900's the electric streetcar #71 was introduced (the same one we rode on today). When a person died, the Viennese would say, "He took the #71" ("er hat den 71er genommen").

The Viennese also say the cemetary is half the size of Zurich (Switzerland) and twice the fun. We don't agree with that characterization of Zurich - find it a beautiful, intersting place!

Many of the famous musicians are buried in Zentralfriedhof, incuding Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Salieri, and Johann Strauss II.

Anyway, sorry for the long digression about the cemetary. I guess as a funeral director's daughter I am interested in these things.

When we got back we left the tram at Opern/Kaerntnerring. I saw a stand selling sausages and Turkish stuffed bread, which I had noticed earlier in the Naschmarket, and suggested we should share a piece of it. Ron bought it, but didn't really want any. It was something like a long pita bread, stuffed with goat cheese, an cut into small rectangular slices. Can't remember the name of it. We ended up leaving it for the pigeons as soon as Ron suggested going into the Bristol Hotel just opposite us for a beverage in an oasis of quiet and beauty.

The Bristol Hotel opened in 1892. The Prince of Wales stayed here for some time with Wallis Simpson in 1936, the year he abdicated. The hotel's poshest (and most expensive) suite is named for the Prince. The hotel has hosted many other famous people, including Teddy Roosevelt. Following WWII, the Bristol served as headquarters for the American military for several years. The American Embassy was based in the hotel from 1951-55.

The Bristol underwent a 5 million Euro renovation from 2007-2009, and is now a "Luxury Collection Hotel" under management of Starwoods Properties (Sheraton).

We sat in the Bristol Bar (called an American bar). Small, wood paneled room. The drinks were the most expensive we've had on this trip, but it was a lovely ambiance - and included small snacks and free "USA Today" and "International NY Times" (so, in essence, that was about $6.50 off the drinks).

We were able to catch the handy Tram #1 right in front of the Bristol, and quickly returned to Radetskyplatz. We went into the small SPAR grocery to pick up some good French bread.

Slicing the meat for his gulasch

When we got "home" Ron prepared gulaschsuppe for himself and a kasekrainer (cheese sausage) for me. You can see the tight quarters in the kitchen.

The finished product 

Day 14 - Wi-Fi Fixed!

Monday - Oct. 27

Daylight savings time ended, and clocks were pushed back 1 hour this morning. So, our time difference to the US is now only 5-hours.

After breakfast, we took the tram to Wien Mitte to the Day Lounge Cafe and settled into comfy leather chairs with tea and capuccino to use the Internet (since our local cafe was closed Sunday and Monday). We were glad to have the extra hour, as Ron had to be back at the apartment by noon to wait for the Internet repair person (who was to come between 12-5). I stayed in the cafe and worked on the computer a couple more hours, researching places to stay in Carinthia on our way south, and doing other searches.

I headed back about 1 PM, just as Ron had emailed me a message that "you can come home now", meaning the Internet was up and running. I didn't see his message, and the repair guy was still at the apartment when I arrived. We tested my laptop connection just to be sure - everything in order. We are keeping our fingers crossed it will work correctly the rest of our stay. Makes life much easier!

By then we were ready for lunch. Another frustrating experience then ensued. I had been wanting to go to the Palmenhaus in the Burggarten, so we took our Tram #1 to the Burgring.

The standard poodle (7-months old)  in seat facing us on tram

Theseus Temple in built 1821
in Volksgarten
(modeled on temple in Athens)

We set out walking into the Volksgarten, as the map I had purchased showed the Palmenhaus to be located there. I said I had read elsewhere that we should walk down Goethegasse, but with the map in front of our eyes, we headed into the Volksgarten.

After walking the entire width and length of the Volkspark, I said, "This has to be wrong - the place is in the BURGgarten." It is really true - the Vienna City Map for Pedestrians" is WRONG! We then walked around the entire Hofburg complex, and when we found ourselves almost back to the point we had started an hour earlier, we found the Palmenhaus. At least we had good exercise for the day, and we passed many beautiful sights - and enjoyed blue skies!

Exterior - Palmenhaus - In warm weather, a beautiful outside terrace for dining

The Palmenhaus was originally built in 1822, and was a private greenhouse for the Emperor. It was rebuilt in 1901 in Jugendstil syle by the famous architect Friedrich Ohman. It fell into disrepair and was closed for about 10-years, and opened as a restaurant, cafe, and butterfly house  after a $17 million renovation around 1998.

We were both disappointed in the menu - very limited. We decided to share a small cheese platter, and REST for awhile. We had been here for a nice meal several years ago, but the menu (at least mid-afternoon menu) was not even similar.

Mary - Catching her breath in Palmenhaus

Cheese plate with GOOD walnuts and pumpkin seeds

From there we walked to Kaerntnerstrasse (main pedestrian shopping street between St. Stephens and the Opera ) and proceeded to Stiffl, a large department store. We went up in the glass elevator to the Sky Bar on the top floor (7th here - would be called 8th in US). Here we had a great view of the roof of St. Stephens and many other buildings.

Ron splurged on a Scotch (you pay dearly for the view) and I had my usual Grunerveltliner.

As night began to fall, the interior lights were dimmed, and buildings around the city became illuminated.

St. Stephens at dusk

We found Bus #2A and rode to familiar Schwedenplatz, transferred to Tram #1 and returned to Radetzkyplatz. We love the availability of public transport - great once you learn the routes, and the ins and outs. Up the staircase to our abode, made much more welcoming by the return of WI-FI! We finished the preparation of "Kathie's" chicken casserole, and about an hour later enjoyed our repast.

Hope the weather will cooperate tomorrow, as I have a list of places to go and things to see as our time here winds down. Can't believe we are already two-weeks into this six-week journey!